Are You Wearing The Wrong Bra? By Susannah Perez

5 Aug

This next guest post is brought to you from the amazing Susannah Perez, a blogger and an experienced bra fitter who is somewhat obsessed with getting women in the correct bra size. You can follow her on Twitter here.

It’s a common misconception between women that bras are always uncomfortable, no matter what size you wear. Well, I’m part of the mission that’s working to dispel that belief. Your bra should be comfortable and if it isn’t then you’re most likely wearing the wrong size.
I can hear you crying out ‘But I’ve been the same size for years, I’ve always been a 36D!’
No you haven’t. You’ve been buying a 36D since you were 16, but that definitely does not mean that your size has stayed the same.
Your body changes shape frequently throughout your life and your breasts will naturally change along with it. Every woman’s weight fluctuates – we step up the exercise regime some months, we have lazy months, we change jobs and eating habits regularly. We go through massive changes to our bodies as well, such as carrying a child and feeding them.
Why would your breasts stay the same size and shape for years on end when your weight doesn’t?
Listen to what your body says to you. There are numerous glaring signs that you are wearing a bra that no longer fits you – signs many women often ignore, which can cause numerous medical problems for you in later life. Here are some of the warning signs you should look out for:

1. You wear the bra on the tightest hook, and can pull the back band away from your body by more than an inch. When you buy a bra, you should look for a snugness that means when you fasten it on the last (loosest) hook, you should just be able to fit four fingers under the back band. The hooks are there to accommodate for the expected stretching of the fabric as you wear the bra, so you can gradually notch it up to maintain the snugness.

  1. The back band of your bra rides up and does not sit in line with the front of your bra. If your back band likes to reside between your shoulder blades instead of in a parallel line with the rest of your bra, you need to go down a back size or two (or more – I’ve been known to take women from a supposed 36 back to a 28).
  1. The straps are as tight as you can make them; they dig into your shoulders and you still have a lack of support and lift. This is yet another sign your back band is too large. Contrary to popular opinion, it’s the back band that gives you most of the support and oomph you need – not the straps. So if your straps are so tight they’re causing you pain, try reducing your back size and looking for a design with wider straps.

4. You get back, shoulder or neck pain. If you experience any of these it’s exceptionally important to change your size, as without action it can turn into chronic pain. It is likely that you do not have enough support from the back band of your bra, and are putting far too much stress on your shoulders as the bra straps will be holding most of the weight of your boobs. Go down a back size or two, and look for a full, supportive style.

5. You get pinching or digging in from the wire poking into your under arm. This is generally a sign of needing a bigger cup, not a bigger back band. It is likely the pain is due to the cup being too small, so the wire is digging into breast tissue (which actually extends midway under you arm).

  1. Your boobs either do not stay in the cup, or you bulge out of the top of the bra. Simply go for a larger cup size, though you may need a bra with more coverage and support as well. Opt for a full cup or balconette style over plunge or push up bras.

7. Your boobs manage to peek out the bottom of your bra. This means two things: that the cup is too small which is forcing the bra to sit away from your body and also that the back band is far too large which is allowing the cup to move. Try going down at least two back sizes and up a cup size or two, after cross grading (eg. originally a 34D, -2 back sizes = 30E, +1 cup size = 30F).

  1. The wire does not sit flush against your breastplate. Even if your boobs are not sneaking out the bottom of the cup this still means the back band is not tight enough and the cup is not large enough. Try going down a back size and up a cup size.

9. When you raise your arms, your bra lifts away from your body. Your bra should stay in the same place no matter what you’re doing, and if it doesn’t it’s likely you’ll experiencing rubbing as the bra doesn’t move with you, it moves against you. Go down a back size or two.

10. Your boobs do not fill the cup properly. Only go down a cup size if you feel that there is empty space all the way around your boob (on top, under the arm and at the side). If you just have a small gap at the top, try a different cut of bra – for example avoid full cups and go for a balconette or plunge style that does not sit as high on your breast.

If you have any of these problems, I beg you, please use this advice to find a bra that fits! Get a measurement as a base, but try that size, two below and one above back band wise, and one below and one or two above cup size wise.
Don’t settle for anything that’s not perfect and make sure you have a good few star jumps around the fitting room to make sure the bra’s not moving and gives you the support you need.
Be aware that many high street fitters are trained to sell you a bra rather than give you a proper fitting session. As a rule, if they start adding anything more than one inch to your base measurement to make the number even, forget it. If they bring you a bra and don’t try to adjust the straps, pull the back band to check tightness, or get you to reach upwards, and just simply look, they’re not a properly trained fitter.
Additionally, if you’re large-cupped, small-backed or both, watch out for fitters cross-grading your size to simply try and get you into one of their bras. If you’re having issues with your 32DD bras, and have actually measured up as a 28G, trying their 32DD bras as they don’t go down to a 28G isn’t going to make a difference.
Finding the right bra can be a frustrating time and money consuming exercise, but once you find that bra your clothes will fit better, your posture will improve, your breasts will look and feel supported and you will feel confident enough to fill your underwear drawer with sexy bras.

Do you have any ill-fitting bra anecdotes, or terrible/hilarious fitting stories to share with the class?

Check out this awesome post from Boosaurus on the same matter.

48 Responses to “Are You Wearing The Wrong Bra? By Susannah Perez”

  1. sandra_nz August 6, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Great article! I have a question about bra fit so I’m hoping you’re checking the comments as well… I have never ever found a bra where the wire sits flush against my breastplate over the course of a full day. So it will sit flush when I put the bra on in the morning, but by mid to late afternoon, it will be starting to point outwards. I wear around a 36/38 HH or H and I wonder how realistic it is to expect the wires to sit flush at that size? Do I need to keep trying different makes and models, or is it an unrealistic goal?

    • Susannah Perez August 6, 2012 at 12.53 #

      It can be more difficult to get your wires to sit against your breastplate with bigger sizes, though the fact that your bra’s moving throughout the day suggests that you might need to adjust your size. Have you ever tried going down to a 34 back and cross-grading to an I cup, because if your bra is moving it may be due to the back band being slightly too loose, riding up your back slightly and causing a tilting effect? It might be that you need to up your cup as well to a 34J or 36I, as your breasts may be leveraging the wire out, as not all of your breast tissue is contained as you move around in the day (if that makes sense?). You could also try looking for a style with a wire that doesn’t sit as high on your breastplate.

      Hope this helps!

      Susannah xx

    • susannahperez August 7, 2012 at 12.53 #

      Hi Sandra,

      It can be more difficult to get your wires to sit against your breastplate with bigger sizes, though the fact that your bra’s moving throughout the day suggests that you might need to adjust your size. Have you ever tried going down to a 34 back and cross-grading to an I cup, because if your bra is moving it may be due to the back band being slightly too loose, riding up your back slightly and causing a tilting effect?

      It might be that you need to up your cup as well to a 34J or 36I, as your breasts may be leveraging the wire out, as not all of your breast tissue is contained as you move around in the day (if that makes sense?). You could also try looking for a style with a wire that doesn’t sit as high on your breastplate.

      Hope this helps!

      Susannah xx

      • sandra_nz August 8, 2012 at 12.53 #

        Very helpful, thank you!

  2. allatalarsvenska August 6, 2012 at 12.53 #

    No 5 is often seen on women who complain they are flat-chested. When you hint that they might need “a different fit” (to be diplomatic) they say “nah, it’s not important, I don’t need the support” and then they continue to buy useless Hello Kitty A-cup bras from H&M. And complain about the their flat chests. Gah!

    • susannahperez August 7, 2012 at 12.53 #

      Haha, I know right!! It’s so frustrating that so many women don’t seem to care! Sometimes I’d be really sneaky and use the scare-tactic of, “Oh, even smaller breasts need support – if you don’t wear the right size it can cause numerous problems like premature sagging and chronic breast pain…” or use the flattery technique (when they’re wearing something like a 36A, but you can tell from sight they clearly need a 30DD/E) “You’re no where near an A! I PROMISE you you’re at least a D!” They go, “No way am I a D!!” And you go “I promise you that you are – let me try you in a different bra…” etc etc…

      I think I just want to properly fit every woman in the world. Oh, and ban rubbish fitters!!

      Susannah xx

  3. Fiona Lipshaw (@feelippy) August 7, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Absolutely great blog post! It is so important to wear the right size bra, yet so many women don’t! A common thing I’ve found is that women get it into their head they are a size X and when told they are something different, especially if you are already have large chest or small chest, they feel that they could never be a bigger cup or band. This stubbornness stops women wearing the right size. We have an ideal size and we don’t like to change from that, but with blog posts like this hopefully more women will see there is light at the end of the tunnel 🙂 Here’s to well fitting bras!

    love Fiona,
    discover your next favorite bra

    • susannahperez August 8, 2012 at 12.53 #

      Thanks Fiona. 🙂

      This has been my experience with fitting too – it’s so, so frustrating when you can’t even convince someone to be fitted because they’re so unbelievably certain that they’re a certain size. I’ve even had some women get angry at me for even suggesting that they might be wearing the wrong size, even if I’m suggesting that they have a smaller back and bigger boobs than they thought! It’s mad. Especially when you can see that the size they’re wearing clearly isn’t comfortable, and will be doing them long-term damage.

      If only we could convince every woman to get properly re-fitted!

      Susannah xx

      • LilyR August 8, 2012 at 12.53 #

        Hi Susannah;

        I’ve wanted to get a bra fitting for a while as I have a few of the symptoms described above. However, I’m embarrassed to do so because of a size difference between my two breasts. It’s a cup or more difference and the idea of possibly being looked at weird or getting a fitter that’s somewhat insensitive to my situation has kept me from getting a fitting, tho I obviously need one! Any tips to work with someone who will be sensitive to my situation? I’m in the US.

  4. Tannis August 8, 2012 at 12.53 #

    I JUST had my first experience being fitted in a shop that sold bras that actually fit. I’m a 38H/HH/I depending on the bra and my life was changed. I mean, A BRA THAT FITS? It’s like a Christmas miracle! Although, one of the bras that fit really well in the shop does not fit so well after wearing it twice. And I’ve gotten some under-boob rash. Which I’m disappointed with, as I spent a decent amount of money on it, and the company doesn’t make it any larger of a cup size. Suppose I’m stuck with it now…

    • susannahperez August 9, 2012 at 12.53 #

      I just LOVE that jubilation when women get in their right size!! It’s a complete life changing experience!

      If you bought the bra that’s not fitting you so well because you were convinced through the in-store bra fitting service, you should be able to take it back (if you’re super-nice and explain the situation they should offer you at least an exchange if you still have your receipt/bra fitting card and it hasn’t been too long). If you’re not happy with doing that then I think that the rash might be due to the bra stretching slightly, so it’s rubbing you rather than staying in place. You could try wearing it on a tighter hook, though it might be the fabric that’s irritating you, in which case I’m afraid there’s not a lot you can do. :/

      Susannah xx

      • Tannis August 9, 2012 at 12.53 #

        I’ll try a tighter hook, and if that doesn’t help give the shop a call. Thanks!

  5. Butterfly August 8, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Before I had kids, I played around with bras and eventually figured out I was a 34DD. At some point I got measured to confirm, and that was great, I knew what I was.

    Now I’m lactating, and my breast size has increased tremendously. I’m now a 34J/K (depending on the bra). For a nursing mom, an ill-fitting bra can cause clogged milk ducts and mastitis, which has been my issue. I need to get a bra that fits *just right,* but there are usually very few styles to try on in the stores (if they have any at all that fit me). I’ve spent a lot of money on “almost perfect” bras that end up not working in the long run. I’m currently going bra-less, which is causing me back issues, but I’d rather have a sore back than mastitis.

    Any tips for a nursing mother who needs something in the 34J/K range?

    • susannahperez August 9, 2012 at 12.53 #

      Aw Butterfly, poor you! 😦

      I don’t know where you’ve already tried, but Freya have a few nursing bras that go up to a K. However, if you’re getting clogged ducts and mastitis, it could be due to pressure in this area, so you might need to go up a cup size again, and also skip any underwiring and go for a soft cup over a moulded cup. There is this site which stock up to an L cup and offer free returns/exchanges and personalised advice (though I can’t vouch for it as I’ve never bought from there myself). Alternately, you could try a nursing tank, which will give you a little more support, though it most likely won’t completely stop your back pain.

      Hope I’ve helped.

      Susannah xx

  6. Lauren M. Barrett August 9, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Great advice. I had gastric bypass surgery, so I went from a G cup to a DD in a few months. Unfortunately, this means that my breasts are saggy and even harder to keep up than they were before. They’re smaller, but still large because of the loose skin. Is there a style you would recommend for that?

    • susannahperez August 9, 2012 at 12.53 #

      Hey Lauren,

      If you haven’t been fitted in a while, I’d go get fitted again, or measure yourself at home – if you’ve lost a lot of weight, I’ll bet that you’ve gone down way more back band sizes than you’d think. 😉 When you’re trying bras on I’d go for full cups, or fuller balconette styles, and steer away from any plunge styles (I’ve gone up and down in weight a lot too, and plunge styles just make my boobs migrate out of the cup – not a good look!). Something with a higher central gore will help you get the support and lift you need.

      Hope that helps.

      Susannah xx

  7. susannahperez August 9, 2012 at 12.53 #


    First of all, I just want to reassure you, and tell you that about 98% of women that I have fitted have had asymmetrical breasts, many with a cup size or more difference (I have a good half a cup difference!). You are not weird at all, you are part of the norm. The only women I have seen with perfectly symmetrical breasts have had implants that have been far too large for their original breast volume (you know the incredibly taught skin look?).

    Please, please don’t worry about getting fitted. As you’re in the US I can’t give you any personal recommendations on good fitters, but I would check out as she is actually based in the US, and I believe there are some recommendations on her site – and she also had a great, simple US bra fitting method you can do yourself if you still aren’t confident going into a store (though I would recommend going into a store after you’ve measured yourself and trying as many bras as you can on – measuring alone is never 100% accurate).

    Hope this has helped. 🙂

    Susannah xx

  8. Traalene August 11, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Just a quick note. Freya only has nursing bras to a uk hh, so if you are a uk 34jj/k the two brands i know of that do a nursing bra in that size are elomi (the beatrice style) and royce. Other wise you could try ewa michalak but all of her nursing bras as underwired so considering you sound like you have had trouble with blocked ducts before they would be best avoided.

  9. DJR August 20, 2012 at 12.53 #

    I have a question. Eventually as the day passes on I wind up getting serious chest pains, like my body swells as the day goes on.. I can only eliviate the pain by pushing my bra away from my body. Is there anything I can do about that? What can I do about that, is it my bra?

  10. TryingSizes August 23, 2012 at 12.53 #

    I read somewhere that the bra should lay flat on the chest between the cups. Is that suppose to be the case when you have a full coverage cup with a higher center gore? I ordered a 34F from HotMilk. It doesn’t sit flat in the middle but has the hint of a gap on the edge near the arm, so I was thinking I probably don’t need a bigger cup. I also have the arm straps adjusted as tight as they will go (since half the strap is decorative, it doesn’t allow for much adjustment over the arms). This is probably the closest I’ve been to the right size. Should I try something else or just hang out with this? I sent a Freya and a Panache back due to 34F being too small. 😉

    Thanks for any suggestions you might be able to provide! Your blog is very informative. 🙂

    • fullerfigurefullerbust August 24, 2012 at 12.53 #

      They should always lie flat! I meant the cups are too small and maybe the band is too big if it doesn’t x

      • TryingSizes August 24, 2012 at 12.53 #

        Thanks for confirming that! I’ll keep trying sizes. 🙂

  11. Double boobs, double the fun? August 24, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Since you asked about anecdotes… This spring I gained some weight and my breasts grew, during the summer my old jeans started to fit again but the bras just kept on giving me four breasts. A few weeks ago I could not go on having ill fitting bras so I went to a lingerie shop to get fitted. So there I was, trying on a bra that just did not seem to do it for me but since I thought that the lady in the shop knew what she was doing I did not question her too much and bought the bra. What a big mistake!

    I saved it until the big day when I was to represent my county when a foreign delegation visited us. You can guess what happened, the bra did not fit at all and I seemed to have four breasts, it was horrible! As you could imagine I got furious and went back to the store, the lady who fitted me was not there so one of the younger girls helped me. The back band was far to loose, something that lady had insisted on, and the cup-size was still to small. The girl was shocked of the bad work her colleague had done and bit her lip when she pulled the back band. I should have been left in my old back band-size but with a E-cup instead of a C! The lovely girl exchanged the ill-fitting one with a bra in the right size, I did not even have to show the receipt, and she did with that gesture restore my faith in them (but I’m never again having that old lady helping me out with bra sizes!).

    • Susannah Perez September 10, 2012 at 12.53 #

      I’m really glad that the other girls in the store sorted that out for you – it’s terrible that this woman has got away with fitting this badly for quite some time.

      Without being disrespectful to anyone, I think sometimes older women have more of a habit to break when it comes to bra fitting, as it’s only recently that anything below a 32 back, above a 38 back and above DD cup has become available more readily – so many still attempt to size in relation to this. Also, I think it’s only in the last couple of years that the war against the +4 method has been brought to mainstream attention, along with the retaliation against baggy back-bands!

      Susannah xx

  12. Nicole August 27, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Thanks for this article! I keep getting two very bothersome conflicting pieces of information: I have a problem with “back boobs” I am very fleshy and soft on my torso. Any bra that fits snugly in the band, especially as snuggly as this article describes (only being able to pull it away an inch) makes my flesh squish out and creates the ugly back boob lumps. Then I am told that if my flesh is squishing out, then my bra is too small. But if I get a bra that doesn’t give my back boobs, it is VERY loose and has zero support. What to do?

    • Susannah Perez September 10, 2012 at 12.53 #

      I can honestly say that anyone who tells you that you back band is too small if you have a bit of squidge either side (providing it’s comfortable) is not a very well trained bra fitter!

      Even the skinniest women will have a little lumpiness when placed in the correct size with the right amount of support – it’s just part of being a women and wearing the right bra, I’m afraid. As long as your back band does not give you pain due to the tightness, you shouldn’t worry about “back boobs” (most women are a little paranoid about this, but trust me, it’s not noticeable when you’re out and about, and a bit of back squidge and a well supported chest is 100 times better than a back band up between your shoulder blades and unsupported boobs!).

      Susannah xx

  13. Stacy August 31, 2012 at 12.53 #

    Hotmilk is wwireless right? It’s harder to get wirefree bras to sit flush against your chest in the middle. It may just be the nature of your nursing bites. None of the one’s I tried tacked to my chest. I got annoyed and bought an underwire.

  14. TR September 16, 2012 at 12.53 #

    I have a lot of problems mentioned above associated with wearing too large a back band, but I wear a 28 back band, and they don’t make them any smaller! I get terrible shoulder, neck and upper back pain, and my straps dig in terribly! Do you know if manufacturers are planning to make size 26 back bands?

  15. Jen D November 14, 2012 at 12.53 #

    I’ve been diagnosed with a hiatal hernia, and severe TMJ with suboccipitals in very poor shape and ear canals being compressed by the jaw muscles in a bunch. I carry my stress in my jaw and neck, obviously, but I never would have attributed it to ill-fitting bras until I read this. The band size I’m *supposed* to wear makes my stomach hurt around the diaphragm (feels like I’m perpetually being punched in the diaphragm, only it’s one punch with the fist and pressure never relieved). Since I wear a larger band size to minimize the pressure there to the extent I am able and still receive any support from a bra at all, I think maybe I’ve migrated the pressure to areas that just give me *different* problems.

    Have you ever met anyone with these issues? Can you recommend a custom bra seamstress? Do you have any other advice?

    Thanks. This entry in particular was very helpful!

  16. KimberlyJ November 26, 2012 at 12.53 #

    I get welts around my rib-cage and back on days when I do a lot of walking or exercise.

  17. Gina Baker January 13, 2013 at 12.53 #

    I have the problem with my back of my bra always riding up my back. By the time I take it off for bed, I might as well not be wearing a bra cause I’m sagging. I noticed with the other posts other ladies are talking about sizes like H, I, and etc. I have never seen sizing like this. See my income is very limited so I have to shop at stores like Wal Mart for a $5.00 bra. These sizes go up to like a DD, but nothing else. Also, I absoulutly hate wired bras because they are so uncomfortable for me. Do you really need a wire bra to have one fit right? Also,is it possible to buy a cheap bra and have it so it doesn’t ride up my back? This problem has been bothering me so much that I have even considered attaching suspenders to the bra and connecting it to my pants. Can you help me with this so I don’t have to buy those suspenders?

    • fullerfigurefullerbust January 13, 2013 at 12.53 #

      Ok so as you will have seen on the post, your back band is way too big. You need to get a smaller band and therefore larger cups. Where are you based?x

      • Gina Baker January 15, 2013 at 12.53 #

        I live in Northcentral Ohio. Thanks for getting back to me so soon.

      • Gina Baker January 15, 2013 at 12.53 #

        I live in Northcentral Ohio. Thank you for getting back with me so soon.

  18. Jetallia 030 April 7, 2013 at 12.53 #

    So my mom took me to vs to get fitted for my bday and my sister told her not to take me there my mom didn’t listen and the lady for me into a 36D which almost looks like a 36B cup compared to my bust. 0.e I’m guessing they’re big but I measures myself and I’m a 30 something idk I’ve grown breast wise in the past month. 37-38.5 – 40.5 pretty sure I’m bigger now. :\ my friend took me back there with her parents and a diff lady put me into a 32DDD which the wires were still cutting painfully into my boobs and I could hear my friend giggling in back of me saying “Wow triple D?!” I did not want to say anything so I just left with the same 36D and tried to convince my mom to take me back so I can get properly fitted but she’s like you have to deal with it because I’m not putting out anymore money for you on bras. But then she gets mad at me when I tie the back to at least give me SOME support. I just noticed this about a day ago when I had the straps loosened to as far as it would go my so called armpit fat was going into my boobs. Migrating birds returning home. x) so now I’m back to wearing a sports bra over a bra but my bf told me he’d take me to get fitted. x) Hopefully they’re not saggy granny tits by then.

  19. Melinda April 23, 2013 at 12.53 #

    Excellent information. You just solved my problem, which was number 7, so annoying! Thank you so much!!!

  20. rozemary April 26, 2013 at 12.53 #

    I had a breast reduction in 2002, and over the years they’re sliding under my arms i need a bra like a straight jacket to put my breast back in the front where they belong i look horrible in my clothes i can’t wear tank tops or go sleeveless please help me, my mom users to sell and fit women in a bra by pennyrich they had a open flap and she pulled the sides to the front, but they’re no longer around.

  21. Stephie Gee ❀ (@la_guerrier) May 25, 2013 at 12.53 #

    I remember going into VS after realizing my 34D wasn’t cutting it anymore, actually it was (I had some serious spillage). The girl fitting me said my measurements indicated that I was a 34D which I knew wasn’t going to work. Nonetheless, she puts me in one of their 34D bras. Obviously its a no go. I mean she adjusted the straps and all, but she didn’t understand that my girls are particularly perky by nature, so the shape of the bra is key. I ended up walking out with a 34DD that day and here I am a year later in that same bra day in day out (I know its bad). My friend just gave me some 34DDs she got for some promotional deal and after I tried them on last night, I almost broke down. I realized that the only reason my everyday bra still seemed to fit was because it stretched out. Trying on the newer bras made me realize that the girls had a bit of a growth spurt and now I really need to get fitted at a real bra boutique that has a real range of sizes to fit real women! The only problem now is to prepare myself to drop the money on a well-fitting bra.

  22. Ann Shapcott June 3, 2013 at 12.53 #

    Hi i wear a 40D bra but lately the back feels tight and leaves red marks and the underwire is digging in my breast tissue leaving red marks

    Any suggestions

  23. Lindsey June 4, 2013 at 12.53 #

    Hey, so I’m currently a 34B, and my bra rides up at the back but I’m hanging out a bit at the sides so should I try a different size? x

  24. Jinx G. June 9, 2013 at 12.53 #

    Thanks for the helpful article.

    I also have a question about bras. One of my bras (34D) is always bulging when I wear it. The worst thing is, when I bend down, the top part of the cups lose contact with my tissue. When I lie down to the side, the cups are almost completely empty; my tissue spills out. I measure about 36 around the bust and 26-28 around my underbust. I am aware that I should wear a smaller band size, yet I can’t find any 26-28 in ANY store. Are there any stores with my approximate size? Also, how come I can fill out a 34D if I only measure 36 around the bust? Thanks!


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